Galletta's Karting Club, located in Oswego,
NY, is a go-kart racing club that specializes on racing as professionally
as we can for as economically as possible. We developed a style of
kart racing that is different, but no less competitive than any national
karting organization. Our
biggest difference is affordability. Our club is free to join and
race in, and the only thing anybody pays for is gas and parts. We
are the largest and longest-running dirt karting class in the local
area, as we were founded in the early 1990s and our average feature
is 45-Laps usually consisting of 10-15 karts, with a 200-Lap "Klassic" Championship at Summer's
end deciding an Annual Points Champion. We race homemade 1-Wheel-Drive
racing karts that can race on professional karting tracks and backyard
speedways alike. We have karts rebuilt from used racing chassis, used
yard karts and some built from scratch. We have ONE class to ensure
a true overall track champion, and not have several smaller classes
of divisional champions with no clear winner. We race used 5hp Briggs
Flathead motors fueled by pump gas, sped-up by hand-shaved heads,
and regulated by stock Fun
Power-type carburetors instead of expensive prefabricated 2-WD chassis
powered by high-priced methanol-fueled motors. On our own backyard
oval speedway, we turn clockwise with our top speeds approximately
45-50MPH. Although we all run in the same division, in addition to
a minimum weight requirement, we have something unique to our inclusive
class -- a weight-to-power-allowance scale to allow heavier drivers
more horsepower via stronger racing cams and more powerful gear ratios,
a system proven to be successful as we have the tightest competition
and most varied winner's circle locally over the last few years.
This is our rules page:
This chapter explains the basic and simple engine rules
to race our Galletta's Karting Club class, covering carburetors,
cams, rods, coils,
flywheels, sparkplugs and all. (2009-current)
This chapter explains the Galletta's weight rule which
allows all weighted competitors to run the same class and one
champion instead of several mini-classes and no overall champion. Bigger cams, power gears,
and extras for heavier drivers. (2009-current)
This chapter explains the 1-wheel-drive setup that we
use at Galletta's, including the clutches,
chains, gears, and tires
along with the basic frame or chassis of the karts entered and raced
at Galletta's.
This chapter explains how that if you do not own your
own kart to enter our races, you may use a Galletta's Team Kart for
a nominal 'gas-and-parts' fee. It is also free to watch our races,
and just a nominal 'tip' donation to enter your own
Galletta's-compliant kart.
This chapter explains the essential (full-face helmets,
full skin covering, neck braces, gloves) and the highly recommended
(chest/elbow/knee/shin pads).
This chapter explains that we have NO charge at our not-for-profit,
friends-and-family backyard speedway, so in order to race at it, you must sign a liability
waiver that we have purchased from law firm. If you do not agree to
it, the property owner will NOT allow you to race on the property.
We are a track.
This chapter explains our basic racing rules, which
for the most part, follow most tracks. However, as a friends-and-family
track, we do take a friendlier stance and have some minor differences.
We also have set flag rules that are close to
most racing circuits on the planet, so please understand them, as
they are possibly the basic and most fundamental rule of all racing.
When people come and don't understand these, they intellectually disqualify
themselves from even attempting to race.
This chapter explains our unique point
scoring system, which decides a true overall champion far better
than just wins alone, and how we handicap
our race starts to ensure the closest possible competition every single race.
Galletta's
Gas Stocker Karting Club's Engine Rules:
(for the 2009 season-and-up; updated 10/2010)
We begin with our standard motor type from the
early-1990s and up. The Briggs and Stratton Flathead L-Head, more
often known as the Briggs & Stratton 5-horsepower engine.
In racing circles, they are known as Raptor motors. From
1990s-to-2004, they were all box stock with no race enhancements and
only maintenance work, but we have since allowed the following
racing enhancements:
MOTOR
BLOCK:
- Briggs & Stratton 'New style' 1990s-and-up style Flathead motor
Box stock block. No porting or reinforcements allowed to the block
without approval of all active regular Galletta's karters or as
described. You may go in every block and clean
out the casting obstructions and imperfections out with a Dremel tool.
Honing is allowed. Bores are allowed, (A) a bore for renewed life and
(B) is approved by all regular competitors. No Galletta's Team Karts have blocks altered in any
other way. Obviously, overriding the governor is allowed. It's essential
in a race. You can do it yourself, but if you need help, see Matt, as
he has prepared and/or tuned all motors in our club. And ask anybody
- when Matt tunes your motor, you are going to fly and compete for wins
that very day.
INTERNAL & EXTERNAL MOTOR PARTS:
CARBURETOR
& GAS TANK:
- Briggs & Stratton Box Stock 1990s-and-up style carburetor and tank.
This carburetor is also known as a "Fun Power" carb, and it
is a most important staple of our club, as it is our "restrict plate"
or speed regulator because they do not have adjustable jets. One and all
are the same. The jet is box stock/standard and fixed. Absolutely ZERO
alterations allowed unless a casting imperfection is found, whereas it
can be ground/drilled to match your competitors' (see Matt on how
to do it and keep it spec, as he has worked on several dozen of them over
the years and they are all equally fast). Drilled carbs are not allowed,
and we have never had one person use them so please do not be the first.
I mean, you could experiment if you are a heavier guy (over 250lbs. maybe?),
but anybody less, just stick with what works for all of us. Raptor or
other racing carbs are banned due to expense. (This rule makes for a VERY
even race and saves you and all of us A LOT of money.) There will be NO
exceptions to this rule unless you are over 250lbs. In this case, we will
allow experimentation, as it is the best way to maintain speeds AND KEEP
COSTS DOWN. If your carb does not work well, take it to Matt and see if
he can fix it. If it does not work, then we will look into finding you
one that does work, or show you how to fix it. Most "slow" stock
Briggs 5hps are due to bad, clogged or miscast carbs. Let Matt help you
in getting them to run with the field. Some may not want to race because
of this reason (some people only trust their own work and others feel
like someone's always out to screw them - that's NOT how we run). But
this is how we keep prices down and speeds regulated. Therefore it is
essential. These carbs are the only reason that we go 40-50MPH instead
of 55-70MPH, AND it allows us to run 200 laps (around 27 miles) on one
tank of pump gas on our home track. You may think that getting a few extra
MPH on a small track is cool, but we laugh when the methanol burns out
after 5-30 laps and we can go on without a refuel for a couple hundred
laps. Beat that!
RODS:
- Rods must be:
- (a) Box-Stock with vinyl dippers, OR
- (b) a Briggs & Stratton Raptor III Rod (for durability/engine safety)
are allowed. Box-Stock oil dippers are banned due to durability issues.
Billet rods are discouraged due to cost, but not banned. No Galletta's
team karts use them, visitors can use them if heavy.
- (c) Drivers weighing over 250 lbs. may use a billet rod. To keep costs
down, they are not recommended for lighter drivers because we do not set
up our motors to need them like a WKA-esque or Open motor need them. Raptor
rods or vinyl dippers work fine for our motor rules.
- Anything else must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers
and kart owners.
COIL:
- Briggs & Stratton box stock coil. No Galletta's team karts contain
hot coils that we know of, nor has anyone ever tried a different one that
we know of. Anything else must be explained and approved by all active
regular drivers and kart owners. If
you don't know, it probably is a stock, so we'll allow it.
FLYWHEEL:
- We have no set rule against flywheels, but our preferred one is a Briggs & Stratton box stock
5hp flywheel. No Galletta's team karts have
3-4hp flywheels that we know of. As all parts, anything else must be explained and approved by all active
regular drivers and kart owners. If you don't know, it probably is a stock,
so we'll allow it.
PISTON/RINGS:
- Briggs & Stratton Piston allowed. Pistons/rings should be box
stock standard. Boring/replacements allowed after excessive wear. (.10,
.20. .30 are only allowed as the motor wears, as each motor has a life
cycle.) We have no firm rules in this department, but no secrets; all
changes must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers
and kart owners. If you don't know, let Matt
check it, but it probably is a stock, so we'll allow it.
- Heads
Heads must start as a Briggs & Stratton box stock 5hp or 4hp head,
and?
- (A) Head may be shaved for extra horsepower. All Galletta's Karts
have hand-shaved heads via sandpaper and drills, shaving it very deep
and porting the head. We allow this because it is an exceedingly cheap
way to increase horsepower. Professionally machined heads are discouraged
due to cost, but they are not illegal. Matt will assist all head shaves
for free, or do one exactly the same as all 12+ Galletta's Team Karts
and visitors if you pay him for his labor. As with all things in our
racing club, if you try something different, you must have it approved
by all regular drivers, but we'll probably allow it. We don't cheat
in our club. That is rule one. That's also who we have so many different
winners.
We race fair, friendly, and always have nothing but fun!
-
Cams and weight ratios:
All of the "Arrive-and-drive" Galletta's-type karts are around
the same weight, but some are slightly heavier than others. We usually put lighter
drivers in heavier ones and vice versa. For lighter drivers, we put
weight on them to get them to our standard weight ranges, seen below.
We also handicap heavier drivers with certain race cams. Now, all cams
must be "NON-SLAPPER" Cams. We can order and install them
in person to ensure we are all agreeing to the same rules. We use approximate
weights because a lbs. or two doesn't decide the outcome of a go-kart
race, but 10-20 lbs. does make a difference. We use loose weights based
on a driver's weight, karter's weight, and cam/header/gear combos. Mixing
and matching has been experimental between 2007-2009, but we feel as
if we have devised an excellent system here that breeds excellent competition,
as proven by our varied wins list in the last few seasons. Cams that
are currently in use and for weight bracket are:
- (A) Briggs & Stratton Box stock cam allowed for drivers
between approx. 100-165 lbs.
- (B) Briggs & Stratton Box stock Raptor Cam allowed for drivers
between 165-200 lbs.
- (C) Dyno 94-SS "hot stocker" cam is allowed for drivers between approx.
165-220 lbs.
- (D) Dyno 98-3 cam is allowed for our heavier drivers over approx.
215-250 lbs.
- (E) Dyno 03-SS cam is allowed for our heavier drivers over approx.
225-275 lbs.
- (F) For drivers around 220 lbs.-and-up, see Matt, you can have a bigger
cam/gear with approval.
Our rules are flexible and we often give more power to visiting drivers
than we have ourselves. We are open to more cams, as long as we all
know what they are. We do experiment with drivers that are so heavy
that they cannot compete with the others. If you weigh less than are
200 lbs., you likely will need nothing more than a Dyno 94-SS cam and
a minimum driver weight of 165 lbs. Anything else must be explained
and approved by a majority vote of active Galletta's drivers and must
be explained to all active regular drivers and kart owners, and if approved
via a vote of ALL active drivers and kart owners, possibly tested, and
if approved, then then implemented into the rules. If your cam is a
"slapper" cam that needs block reinforcement, then you use
at at your own risk and we would consider it illegal unless you are
a super-heavy driver (over say 275 lbs. or so). Our club is flexible
and with this power-to-weight system, our racing is inclusive and more
competitive than ever. We don't like 5-10 classes of 1-8 karts (boring
and not much competition!), we prefer 1 class of 10-20 karts (FUN and
TRUE competition!). That's real racing, and our rules allow for that.
This is why we don't have silly multiple classes of 1-5 kart races.
Honestly... do you think that is fun for spectators or even good competition?
Our chassis are mostly homemade from scratch. Some are rebuilt from
yard karts, while some are rebuilt from racing karts. Galletta's
started in the early 1990s when Matt took his used 1980s Manco Yard
Kart and Chris took his former 1980s Thunder Island Kart and they began
racing in the backyard behind Galletta's Greenhouse. Both karts
were 1-Wheel-Drive, which separates them from 2-Wheel Drive "Live
Axles" of most racing kart series. Initially we races counterclockwise
(left-turn) like most other racing circuits around the world. However,
we discovered that the 1-WD turns superior when turning right (racing
clockwise). Mixed with the inclines backyard at Galletta's, we discovered
that the speeds were quicker, cornering was improved and the motors
were less stressed racing clockwise. We have taken a lot of ribbing
from somewhat red-necked and often dimwitted "racers only turns
left, dude!"-type people, to which we ask, "then what is Grand
Prix/road course racing?" Racing is racing, and real racers can
turn left or right. To use our right-turn style against us exposes an
incomplete driving ability to us, but mock all you want. Our chassis
have more clearance than racing karts and can race on both pay tracks
and backyard tracks.
-Tires:
We have no 100% tire specs other than they must be slicks. Our track
is a somewhat loose clay and soil mix, so you can use racing kart tires,
quarter midget tires, yard kart tires, lawnmower tires of any company...
whatever you can use that will work for your kart and not dig up the
track is OK. Most of our karts have used racing kart tires and some
yard kart tires. However, we DO have rules against treaded or spiked
tires, especially on our drive-wheel.
Renting
a Galletta's kart at an "Away" track:
- It must be a Galletta's Kart Club event, with other members of the
Galletta's Kart Club also in attendance, and you must pay separate pit-pass/race
entry/gate fees to the speedway's owners.
-If you can assist us in trucking the Kart between Galletta's and the
other karting track, you may rent one of our karts for $5 for a veteran
Galletta's Club member, $10 for a 1st-time driver.
- If you cannot assist us in trucking the kart to an away track, then
the kart rental will be flexible and dependent on the distance traveled
and the length of the race.
- You must obey all track officials and pay all entrance and insurance
fees of the host track SEPARATE from our kart rentals if you use our
karts on another track. These karts are fast and there is a potential
for injury, so you must sign a waiver if you use them. If you are proving
to be a hazard to yourself or to others with the kart, may lose your
ride. We will race on any away track in the Central New York/Oswego
County area where we have enough interested drivers and the track allows
us our own motor class, so contact us about it.
- Note: Some people have been calling certain homemade karts "Galletta's
karts" at non-Galletta's races at certain local tracks, and this
would be a misnomer. Ironically enough, when we raced at one local pay
track, they refused to acknowledge the name Galletta's (our sponsor
and host of our club) and for some reason they never wanted to call
us Galletta's (calling us at first "Yard karts" and then "gas
stockers") until our class was removed from their weekly card,
and then suddenly every homemade kart was called a "gaylettas"
which is highly insulting. Please be mindful that to be called a Galletta's-kart,
it must be a 1-WD gas stock flathead that is set up to turn right, and
motor tuned by co-founder Matt Stevens, the winningest driver of all
Oswego-area karting classes, methanol or gas. Also, it is not a Galletta's
race unless one of the Galletta's Karting Club founders is in the race
or at the event scoring it it (Matt and Chris Stevens). So please do
not disparage our club and demean our racers when random failed/ex-Galletta's
racers show up and try to race with you. Unless we are there, it isn't
a Galletta's race and it is not to be acknowledged as one. On the reverse,
as a note to methanol or clone drivers who have never raced in our club
and mock it with weak nicknames that attack the name of our family and
small business: Try it. You may learn a few things. In fact, we guarantee
it. It's harder to win at Galletta's than it is in most karting classes
because we are all so close and the cofounders have over 20 full years
experience karting. Try it before you open your mouth. Nobody has ever
beat Matt and Chris at a point series, and many get so frustrated at
failing that they either try other classes or give up racing entirely.
Those that have raced with us regularly at any time have nothing bad
to say about the racing skills and difficulty level of competing at
a Galletta's race.
This track is a ride-at-your-own-risk, nonprofit racetrack for recreational
purposes only. The landowner, Mary A. Stevens, allows
speed-regulated go-karts to be operated on her property under New
York State Recreational Use Statute, and charges no money for use
of her land. By signing this contract,
it reaffirms that we (the property/track owners/kart owners/officials)
are not responsible or liable for any injuries sustained on the track
that may
occur while using go-karts on our residence. You will obey all laws,
rules, and regulations instituted by the track officials, and drive
as carefully as you can in order to not cause (or get into) accidents
that could be otherwise avoided. The first and most important rule on
this racetrack is to never intentionally hit another driver and do your
very best to avoid contact that may cause an accident that may cause
an injury or damage machinery. If a driver is vulnerable to be struck
and injured by you and/or your vehicle, your #1 goal is to avoid hurting
that person, even if it means driving off of the track or coming to
a complete stop (you will not be penalized track position if this occurs
unless you collide with a kart or other obstacle). If the track officials
believe that you intentionally caused a wreck, the track officials reserve
the right to disqualify you for that race, and
possibly remove you from the racetrack and ban you from the property
temporarily, indefinitely and/or permanently if you continue to rebel
against the rules or break any laws. You agree that you cannot ever
attempt to bring a lawsuit against the property owners or fellow racers
no matter what kind of injury you may obtain on our property. We cannot
and will not pay any hospital or doctor bills that you might obtain
if you were to become injured. No one that you know can sue us in place
of you because you agree that you are racing at your own risk, at no
profit, and for recreational purposes only. All drivers should be over
18, and if you are not, this signature also affirms that a parent or
legal guardian has granted you permission to race on this track and
that said person also understands the ride-at-your-own-risk policy at
this racetrack. If you wish for insurance, you must use your own, as
the landowner has no gate or entry fees to provide it for you. We race
karts under a friends/family basis only. This contract (that may exceed
this page) also affirms that you will obey and respect all rules, regulations,
and instructions set forth by the property owners/track officials (Matthew
Joseph Stevens, Christopher John Stevens, Wesley James Stevens, Mary
Ann Stevens, Rungnapha "Aou" Phengpataew Stevens, and
Melissa Gabel Stevens). [Contract then says: Please legibly sign and
print your name below, and the contract has been read, agreed to, and
signed by every driver who has ever raced at our racetrack, as witnessed
by all people there.] 2009 UPDATE: Above is our older waiver. We
now have an updated waiver purchased from a law firm dealing with kart
tracks, but our track operates under the same non-profit New York State Recreational Use Statute.
3d. Starting order / Handicap rules: Each
race (except Klassic) is handicapped as inverted by points-per-event and
features won. This means that low-points-per-race veterans (includes experienced
rookies) in the front, high-points-per-race & feature-winning veterans
in the back, and inexperienced rookies (AKA rookies with generally under
5-10 features experience in the kart or a tendency to spin or wreck into
other karts) in the very back behind them all until they prove themselves
stable enough drivers to warrant starting in the front (meaning that they
have proven that they can race in traffic and not wreck into other karts
with the entire field coming, which can at least be highly annoying and
at worst... exceedingly dangerous). Also, a 2nd twin-30 is handicapped
via inverting the results of the first feature, minus drivers who have
not won in front.
The handicap start
for regular season races goes via groups:
[VETERAN GROUP - Drivers who have entered at least 3 Galletta's Veteran
features and finished at least 1]
[A] Drivers who have never won a feature, inverted by points-per-race.
[B] Drivers who have not won a feature this season, inverted by points-per-race.
[C] Drivers who won a feature this season, inverted first by (a) wins
this season and secondly by (b) points-per-race.
[NOVICE GROUP - Drivers who have entered less than 3 Galletta's Veteran
Features and finished less than 1]
[D] Drivers who have raced in less than two features, inverted by (a)
weight, (b) experience, or (c) coin flip.
Note A: Klassic 200 Race does not use a handicap system,
it starts via best of two time-trials before the event.
Note B: The 2nd of a Twin-30 Race will start inverted from the finish
of the 1st feature, but with winless drivers inverted in the front.
3e.
RACE START/RESTART RULES: Each race starts single-file (again, based
on inverted points-per-race/wins handicapping), as do restarts (based
on last-completed-lap). [Exceptions are the Annual Klassic Race, where
time-trails decide the starting lineup, and the opening lap is traditionally
2-wide (on our track; outside is pole, inside is 2nd), though all restarts
to any race are single-file]. The race begins with the lineup in-order
on the front or back stretch. The field stays in single file via caution
until the leaders round the 4th turn and come down the front stretch.
The flagman/woman then gives the green when all of the karts are in
line and the leader passes the garden zone. However, NO PASSING IS
ALLOWED until the leader leaves corner 4 and enters the front straightaway,
The Start/Finish Line, our old "can't pass until" line, is
parallel to the flagman and lap counter next to the 1st Willow tree.
If anybody passes any contending (lead lap) kart before the leader crosses
the start/finish line, the caution must be thrown and they will be sent
to the back. Under certain circumstances, a driver is allowed his position
back with a warning, but in general this is ONLY for rookie drivers
who didn't actually know the rule or the starter set an unusually slow
pace.
A snapshot from our 12th Annual Galletta's Go-Kart Klassic Championship
in 2007!
3f.
Restart rules: The restart positions must go to the last completed
lap (the last lap under green that the non-wrecked drivers completed)
with the wrecked/spun karts in the rear (unless the position on the
last completed lap was a tie, then they may start side-by-side as they
were on the said completed lap). The karts that actually caused the
accident will go to the very back, the karts that got caught in their
aftermath ahead, and karts that got through unscathed (touched no wrecked/spun
kart or come to a complete stop without hitting a wrecked/spun kart)
in front. The last completed lap rule is sometimes (and rarely) overridden
to the start/finish line in occasional cases where a single, inexperienced
rookie driver in last place spins out in a turn and the track is clear
TO the start/finish line, and the caution will occur the second you
cross it. However, if the accident/spin is ahead of any kart, and the
potential of hitting that spun-out/wrecked kart exists, then the caution
is final, the restart order is the same as the last completed lap (LCL),
and you cannot advance a position gained on the caution lap, unless
the passed driver concedes that he was clearly slower and passed before
the caution came out (which is a courtesy pass; but the passed driver
has the right to ask for his LCL position back). In most instances,
the order is the last completed lap unless a flag man explicitly signals
that it is clear to the start/finish line (this occasionally happens
when there are too many silly and unforced cautions [AKA; usually rookie
spinouts] in an event). On restarts, lapped traffic should go to the
very rear, except Classic, where for the 1st 100 laps, they will be
kept in line and after lap 100, they will be again placed in the rear.
3gV1. Breakdown/Courtesy
repair/Change karts rule (2007-up Version): From now on, we no longer
halt the racing to fix one man's kart. If your kart is broken and takes
more than a few minutes to fix (around 1-4 courtesy minutes), then you
cannot halt the racing action to fix your kart unless you call a timeout.
Each driver in the weekly action has a limited amount of timeouts PER
YEAR (2 per year, and 1 for Klassic Race. You may carry regular season
timeouts over to Klassic) and once they are used, then you cannot stop
the race to wait for you to be fixed. If your kart breaks and a backup
is available, you may use it (only if you own it or paid for it), otherwise
we will not stop the race for you. You may fix your kart and re-enter
the race blending safely with traffic after you are fixed, but you will
be laps down (however many completed green flag laps you were
out).
3g2: The "Change
to a backup Kart after the starting Kart Broke" Rule: At
Galletta's, we have always tried to keep as many drivers in our events
as possible. So, in addition to allowing some break repair time (each
driver has a limited amount of "repair timeouts"), if there
are extra karts available then a driver may hop into an unused kart,
and re-enter the race at the rear of the field. If two people dispute
over an unused kart, it is determined via: (1) Kart Ownership, (2) rental
money paid to kart owner, (3) Driver's place in the Points Standings,
(4) Heat Qualification or Time-Trial Speed. As of 7/2007, we now dock
points when drivers change karts. The penalty will be -10 points. Also,
as of 2006, there will no longer be drivers replacing other active drivers
from their karts via points seniority, unless the driver is renting
a kart and is being a hazard to himself and to others.
4.
No alcohol or illegal drugs: No driver will be allowed to drink
an alcoholic beverage before or during the race. If you are intoxicated,
you will not be allowed to race and may also be asked to leave. If you
are noticeably and publicly drunk or high at any time (driver or spectator),
you will be asked to leave, so please do not drink or get stoned on
our property. Absolutely NO illegal substances are allowed on our property
at any time for any reason, and if found, we will (A) not be held responsible,
(B) you will be asked to leave the premises, and (C) the police will
be contacted if you do not leave in a timely manner. Galletta's is first
and foremost, a respected Greenhouse, and secondly a friends-and-family
karting club. Therefore, we cannot have any illegal drugs on our property.
The racing is just for fun amongst friends and hopefully make some new
friends while we're at it. Its not for partying, money, fighting, and
all this other garbage that some people think it is. If you break any
laws on our property, you will be asked to leave and/or reported to
the proper authorities. The owners do not drink and do not use drugs
(and don't have to tolerate it on their property), and nor should the
visiting drivers.
5.
Refunds on Rentals: The kart rental donation
money goes directly back into the kart; the wear and tear, the damage,
the gas, and the maintenance time. Discounted rentals can be arranged
multiple ways: If you help do work on the track or karts for a suitable
amount of time (which is up to Matt), you pay for your own parts (replace
any broken/worn parts, buy your own tires, motor, parts). Rental kart
fee is non-refundable if you race and break a part on the kart. However,
if simply you didn't get to race (under 10 green flag laps, which
includes practice, heats, features, and cautions that you caused)
you can use another backup/rental kart (with kart owner's permission).
However, if no backup karts are available (which is rare), you may
get additional laps after the main event race, or have a reduced (or
free) rental the following week. This is all dependent on the amount
of kart damage, how much work you did helping out, how many green-flag
laps you completed, amount of parts/gas/motors that you added to the
kart, and only Matt can say how much, backed by Chris, Wes, and Mary
Stevens; nobody else. No refunds unless (1) you race less than 10
laps - which includes practice laps, heat laps, feature laps, and
your cautions [that you caused] included, (2) cause absolutely no
damage to the karts or track, (3) caused less than 2 cautions (0 or
1), AND (4) were at absolutely zero fault for the kart not running
properly (Meaning: Kart does not run, will not run for even Matt or
Chris, and the reason that it won't run is absolutely not your fault;
this usually is not the case, as most of the time a cold kart will
stall only on the inexperienced drivers who stomp on the gas and let
off it too hard; solve this by babying the gas gently, keep it slightly
gassed when idle, and don't stomp too fast. Stalling usually subsides
when the engine is warm and usually only occurs with a combination
of cold engines and lead feet who get on it and get off it too fast,
though rare exceptions exist [clogged carb, faulty kill switch, loose
throttle, ect. - mostly corrected by Matt before or during the race].
These karts are more delicate than most people realize, especially
rookie renters who usually trash them). So, when you pay your kart
rental, you pay it mostly as a usage fee, and it cannot be refunded
if you break any substantial part on a kart. That money is how the
broken parts get replaced/repaired.
5b.
Why are we charged rent/entrance donation fees at all? If you
cannot afford these fees, you will not be allowed to race. If you
can only afford a partial fee, you may only run a heat or a partial
feature. We are now forced to be stricter with the fees due to drivers
not paying full, not paying back dues, and drivers breaking the karts
and never replacing broken parts. The rental has rarely covered the
cost of replacement parts, and nobody makes any even one cent of profit
from the rental fees, so please stop asking for reduced rentals unless
you are doing work on the track or paying for replacement parts and/or
gas. If you cannot afford to race, then just watch and allow the ride
to someone who can pay to race. We do this for fun, we supply our
own team karts for people to race with, and there is no fun when nobody
pays for the parts they broke and the gas they burn.
6.
Age and physical strength limits: Although we are a recreational
track, but we do not allow drivers under a certain weight/strength/age
to participate because we are running a points race and a friendly
points wager amongst friends and family members AND in the past, people
have been hurt (though none seriously). The karts are fast, the track
is physically demanding, the actual racing is grueling. Under these
circumstances, small children and women unaccustomed to the demands
of racing may be accident-prone and there is a potential for injury.
It is much more physically taxing than it looks, and you can get hurt,
especially if you flip your kart. Women, older men, and children are
especially vulnerable to injury, and property owners ONLY allow qualified,
experienced drivers. Newcomers are welcome to join us and race in
"Rookie/Novice Races" until they seem to get the hang of
things, then they may enter our regular races. If you cannot lift
more than at least 30-50lbs, are too short to reach the pedals, and/or
can't afford rental fees, then you cannot drive our karts. As a general
rule, we tend to allow mostly people 18-and-over, though we do allow
some teenagers can race if they prove that they can handle the kart
well AND their parents attend, approve of the racing, and sign
the waiver sheet for them (and even then, if they prove to not be
physically and mentally competent to race, and are a hazard to themselves
or others, they will not be allowed to race any more). If they prove
they can handle the kart, they can qualify in. It is more physically
demanding than it looks. Children and younger (smaller) teens absolutely
CANNOT race and older teens can only race if they have their parent/legal
guardian's ABSOLUTE approval, in addition to the property OWNER'S
approval.
Visually,
the worst wreck at Galletta's caught on tape. Serious adult racers, 18-and-up (or 16-17 with parental attendance
and approval), and drivers license only. Nobody unless they have proper
with safety equipment ONLY. You race at your own risk. Though safe
enough to have hundreds of drivers racing thousands of laps for over
two decades and no serious injuries, you can, however unlikely, get
hurt. We make the karts and track safer every year, but you must take
great care: SAFETY FIRST!!
6b.
Rookie/novice/teenager/incompetent/reckless/incompetent/inexperienced
driver rule: At the end of the 2006 season, we have noticed a
continuous problem with a small amount of people every year coming
to rent karts once or twice, demolishing them (or their negligence
leading to damaging others), and demanding their money back and never
race again. We will no longer be renting our rental karts to anybody
under 18 unless their parent has watched, inspected, signed the waiver
sheet and agreed to allow them to race, and people who are (well...
for lack of a better term,) generally incompetent and cannot keep
a kart running, cannot keep it going on the track, or spinout/wreck
continuously, will lose their ride and will not get a refund. We've
let too many people demolish our own karts on our own property and
then request that we pay for the parts they demolished. No more. This
track is race at your own risk, and if you cannot race without being
a hazard to yourself, the karts, and to others, you cannot be allowed
to race at all because of the money, time, and potential health and
legal repercussions from this. The racing is generally safe until
and incompetent driver makes a mess wrecking and arguing. Also, you
can't leave the race on your own accord and request a refund the next
day unless you raced less than 10 laps (total, not just green feature
laps) and caused absolutely no damage to any kart. And one last
thing that seems very simple, but it fails to be grasped by certain
people... If you are here looking for trouble, look elsewhere.
We only race for fun, and don't need troublemakers. If we sense you
are on the track or using any kart to try and hurt yourself or others,
or intentionally smash karts and property, you will be asked to leave.
These are NOT bumper carts and this is NOT a place of business. It
is recreational, for-fun, non-profit racing ONLY, and only between
friends and family and to make new friends having friendly races.
DO NOT ask for your money back after being grossly negligent and causing
wrecks that cost people a lot of time and money and potentially injuries.
When you ask for a $15-17 rental fee back when you demolished a $50
rim, blew a $30 tire, wrenched a $5 axle, and/or burnt $10-20 of gas
on top of that... you look like an ass, ok? Thank you. I mean, this
is really simple, and s small amount of people seem really dumb because
they ask anyway. In particular are the two nimrods that forced us
to call the sheriff after they intentionally tried to break karts
and hurt people. We will press changes against anybody who ever tries
to do that on our property again.
7. Videotaping: Almost every race has been videotaped since
2005 (and several since 1998 before that - including all big shows),
and a DVD is available of any race (and all DVDs have 1-4 races per
DVD, and often more than one camera perspective) for $5 each disc.
I can also make covers for any DVD (since my profession and hobby
is graphic artist), so ask me if you'd like some. If you want professionally
printed covers and disc trays, it will be slightly more, though I
can make them available for downloading and printing yourself.
Visit our DVD Store.
7b. You are allowed to take photos or videotape the races at Galletta's
if you provide Chris with copies (for trade with our personal
copies that we make ourselves). You will not be allowed to videotape
the racing unless you provide Chris with a copy of the race. You are
allowed to arrange a trade your copies for his copies of the race,
but always ask first. We are also looking for copies to our Galletta's
and Oswego Speedway events, and will gladly trade copies of our Galletta's
home races for them (inquire). We will add YOUR videotape into the
DVDs and provide you with a free copy. We reserve the right to copyright
videos of the races on our property.
OUTDATED/FORMER ENGINE &
KART SETUP RULES AND WHY WE WERE FORCED TO CHANGE FROM 100% BOX STOCK
TO RACE-MODIFIED:
Engine rules 1993-2004:
Every go-kart entered in the Galletta's Karting Speedway and points
system from 1993-2004 was a 100% box-stock flathead (FH) 5-horsepower
Briggs & Stratton motor that runs on gasoline; all
racing parts and alterations were forbidden. All chassis
are Single-Wheel Drive, clockwise-turning racing karts. 2005-up allowed
hand shaved/milled heads (see below changes and controversy). No internal
or external racing modifications, nor shaved heads. This changed forever
after self-proclaimed "Outlaws" started showing up in mid-2004...
The "Self-Proclaimed
'Outlaws'" History Lesson
A.K.A. the Invasion of Unsportsmanlike Karters that disobeyed rules:
Engine
rules between 2004-and-up
(forced upon us by visiting drivers & "away" track officials):
- ...in mid-2004, one competitor brought an Overhead valve
(OHV) 5.5hp Briggs & Stratton motor. On a trial basis only, we
allowed it because the competitor was passionate about racing, had
a heavy kart and was himself slightly heavier than some (but not all)
of the other regular drivers. When the 5.5hp OHV motor immediately
proved far too powerful for anybody in a stock 5hp to defeat
(passing everybody easily and winning almost every race that it entered
no matter the experience or weight of the other drivers), the motor
wasn't banned, but highly discouraged. The driver was invited back
in a 5hp, but he declined.
- The event was repeated in 2005, when the same driver and
several others brought what was said to be 5.5hps, but most were 6.5hps
(with stickers removed and lying by saying that they were 5.5hps),
and for the most part, the drivers were all close in weight to guys
with 5hps. On a trial basis (again), Galletta's allowed it for the
sake of having more passionate drivers. Most of the 6.5hps easily
defeated the 5hps almost every race due to a noticeable power differential
in the turns. The 6.5hp OHVs just had more power, which placed everyone
in a 5hp at an extreme disadvantage, and only the most experienced
in 5hps were able to barely compete. Several regular 5hp drivers
left and never came back, saying, "You let those cheaters
ruin a good thing." This is when visiting driver's "run-what-you-brung"
rules were starting to alter the way our Galletta's "Box stock
5hp" class was run, as Matt Stevens, for the first time ever,
altered his own rules and started to shave (or mill) 5hp heads in
order to compensate for the extra horsepower in the 6.5hps. When this
happened, the more experienced drivers in 5hps started competing with
the 6.5hps again. However, the 6.5hps came back every week with new
tricks which made them completely illegal and our "equal equipment"
rules and disrespectful to good sportsmanship and affordable racing.
The motors were banned from racing 5hps, however were okayed to race
in their own separate class or allowed to race with the others if
they used 5hps. They declined both offers, fought with some volunteers
and drivers, and never returned. On the world and national stage,
the WKA rule committee came to the same conclusion that Galletta's
rule committee, and does not allow 5hp-type "Raptor" motors
to be raced with 6.5hp-type "Animal" OHVs, which proved
to back up our stance as well.
- The problem of mixed motors, however, continued on
Oswego Kartway
between 2006-07, where track officials refuse to allow us separate
classes, and force the two motors to race together or not at all,
despite what the track rules say with all other divisions (motor classes,
weight classes, and minimum 5 per class to run), which no matter how
many hard feelings that the unequal engine dispute causes, and now
many people have since stopped racing because of the dispute. -
In 2007, Limited race cams (such as the Dyno 94-ss) were allowed
for drivers over 200 lbs. only. The rule was invented by another visiting
driver who weighed 200lbs..
- In 2008, Founder Matt Stevens instituted a limited
brand of race cam (once just allowed for drivers over 200 lbs. in
2007 and early 2008) to compete with 6.5hps after Oswego track official
Jim Losurdo
refused to allow us our own class, told us to screw everybody else
and make ours faster, and
6.5hps again started to make upgrades, including Animal takeout parts
and fuel additives. The argument toward mixing these motors has proven
to be irrational and every active and former regular member of the
above Galletta's roster (with the exception of the ones who have 6.5hps)
disagrees with an outside force discriminating against our class and
meddling with our rules, which has forever altered our once fun and
friendly racing forever towards bickering, frustration and anger,
which has lost us many drivers and has made us look bad for defending
our unique brand of SWD gas stocker karting. Now the Oswego track
officials are making a box stock class after forcing us to not be
box stock, and censor us.
- New rules/suggestions for 2009: A minimum weight rule will
be re-instituted for the 2009 season to help heavier drivers to compete.
It will be the medium of all active drivers and set before the season's
start. It will be adjusted with majority vote. Stock, Dyno 94-SS,
& 98-3 cams are allowed, unless a majority of regular drivers
votes to go back to 100% stock cams (and we will re-ban race cams
if this is the case). No Galletta's-class 1WD 5hp will race with an
"Outlaw" style motor (AKA a 6.5hp OHV kart with undisclosed
racing "Animal" modifications), no matter any weight rules
intended to equalize the power differential because it has been tried
(2004-08) and cannot work. It has been utterly proven that an OHV
can tolerate more load and not lose much power, while a 5hp flathead
cannot without full racing enhancements, which utterly betrays the
original intent of our carting class's creation, and disgruntles the
drivers with smaller motors. 5hp flatheads are no longer in production,
but can easily be found in garages and on eBay
for anywhere between $20-$175, and all active Galletta's karters have
them. If and when 5hp flatheads cannot be purchased and repaired affordably,
we will then go to OHV motors (which probably will not be for several
years yet). They are two different motors and make two perfectly good
different race classes. Period.
Allowed Motors: 5
horsepower Briggs and Stratton Flathead Motors with 100% stock parts
to start between 1990-2004 (changes allowed since: 2005-up = shaved
heads, 2008-up = Select Approved Dyno cams).
1990s-updated carb-style mandatory; shaved heads and race rods/nylon
dippers or Raptor Rods allowed. Sample Pictures:
Note: These are three 100% stock motors (one was brand
new out of the box, the others was rarely used and/or refurbished)
and both were extremely fast after Matt gave them a tune-up. They
all time-trialed fast and won races. The lesson is, the excuse that
"Briggs discontinued these motors so I can't buy them anymore"
is nonsense, as you can get them used easily. And used motors can
be just as fast as new ones, often faster. Just come to Matt and he'll
set it up for a small fee (he will shave the head and tune them exactly
the same as all 11 of our karts). The small fee will be worth the
fun. If you don't already have one, Chris will buy a motor for you
off of ebay (if you give him at least a down payment in advance).
We can usually get them in the $20-200 range depending on the condition,
often averaging around $100-130. Matt will then do the modifications
for an additional fee (varies on amount of work done). Matt will often
help regular drivers for free.
Banned
Parts:
- Since installing race cams in mid-2008, we now allow Raptor parts.
Prior to 2008, all Raptor parts (except for Raptor III rods) and equivalent
expensive after-market racing counterparts used to be illegal under
Galletta's rules from 1995-2008 when our engine rules are meant to
be ?box stock.? Racing on a local pay track between 2006-2008 that
ignored our rule package and forced us to "upgrade or else"
changed that. However, our class is still meant to be economically
affordable for those who are looking to have fun racing good drivers
without spending all their spare income. do consider that if you want
to pour thousands of dollars into your engine and think that is lame
that we race the way we do for bottom dollar, then there are plenty
of karting classes for you for you to blow your money on. Our #1 rule
is to go as fast as we can as affordably as we can. We succeed at
that, and believe nobody does it better for equal or lesser cost.
If
you don't have a motor like above, the Galletta's Karting Club can
help find you one (the usual cost within the $100-200 range on eBay
in most cases), and assist in setting it up exactly like all other
Galletta's kart motors. Matt also can do a Galletta's refresh and
tune-up (price dependant on parts and labor; see him). Although Galletta's
won't buy a motor for you, but we will help you find one. If you need
help bidding and buying one on ebay, see Chris, but you must pay him
within a day or two of the auction end. Why? Because we want more
people to race against and we are not looking to make a buck off of
this! If you absolutely cannot use a Briggs gas flathead 5hp, we are
open to discussions about other types of flathead motors. However,
we STRONGLY suggest Briggs because all of 12 our Galletta's karts
and all 3-5 visitors karts motors are 5hp FHs with equal modifications.
They are cheap and easy to fix. Matt will assist you on all motors.
He will also assist in stagger and all kart setups. In the future,
if and when 5hp flathead gas stock motors become too costly or rare
to acquire and maintain, then the club will examine ALL other
types of motors and vote on the most affordable, durable, equal motor.
Different motors can be tried on a trial basis, but we feel that a
5hp Briggs is the cheapest and easiest to maintain and all of our
karts have them. However, due to a long and exhaustive trial basis,
we have determined that overhead valve 6.5hp-appearing motors have
a wider power band and are geared differently. So different gears
worked better for their more powerful low end torque motors. We can't
duplicate what they do and vice versa. That's why none of our guys
want to race them. Too much trouble keeping them equal and everybody
getting all mad (see below for more details about the "Overhead
Valve Outlaws). ALL motors MUST be equal and/or approved by ALL
ACTIVE regular drivers. This is rule #1 of the Galletta's Karting
Club.
Some unwritten
rules, evident to most racing tracks, including basic flag rules,
are not listed here, but may be added later if not understood or requested.
Check from time to time for updates.
THESE
ARE THE BASIC RULES. Rules are subject to change or be added if
issues come up. If you have a new idea, it must be shown, explained,
and approved to all other active Galletta's Kart Club regular drivers
and Kart Owners. Why? Because our class is NOT about getting a
leg up and a new secret to hold over the rest of the class. Or a motor
that just has way more horsepower or money into it than the next guy.
That stuff - which makes other racing classes highly expensive and
makes fights break out - is banned. Our class is about friends and
family with equal motors/equal parts racing purely for fun, and ONLY
for bragging points in our points standings. We make new friends all
of the time doing it this way, and only guys who tried cheating ever
had anything bad to say about us. If you're out for bloodthirsty,
throat-cutting, 'wrecking-some-a-hole-up-because-u-hate-him', then
this class is not for you. Try another. If you want friendly fun racing,
then join the always expanding club. This class is for you.
Join our
group for fellowship with our racers and their friends & family:
Our
FORMER "Away"
track, Oswego Speedway's little dirt track out back. This Spring 2006
Google Earth
picture,
however, was taken when the dirt
track was in its beginning stages.
Oswego
Kartway has different rules than our Galletta's track, though
gas, stock motors (6.5hp max, 5hp preferred for anybody under 200
lbs.), and slicks are the basics for our division.
Found here, hey also have T1 or WKA-style methanol karts, including
champ karts. Our complete history at the Kartway:
Galletta's
Backyard Go-Kart Speedway is a 0.133887 mile dirt oval with
20-degree banked turns. It is located behind Galletta's
Greenhouse in Oswego, NY, and can be seen from outer space!
The single-wheel-drive gasoline-fueled flathead motor karts
take the track between 15-17 seconds per lap which averages
over 30 mph (approximately 45-50 mph top speed in the
straights). Our speeds are comparable to
alcohol/methanol-fueled karts that cost 8 times as much
because we use mostly stock parts and gas on a large track;
leading to more karts, more competition, and more fun. Our
class is usually the largest and most competitive in the
area. Thanks to Google Earth for this Spring 2006 photo. Our
karting club's home track is located in back of:
Galletta's
Greenhouses
60 County
Route 20
Oswego, NY 13126-6512
(315) 343-0879 or (315) 343-4281 Need
directions? Here they are!
Our
biggest difference is affordability. Our club is free to join and
race in, and the only thing anybody pays for is gas and parts. We
are the largest and longest-running dirt karting class in the local
area, as we were founded in the early 1990s and our average feature
is 45-Laps usually consisting of 10-15 karts, with a
200-Lap "Klassic" Championship at Summer's
end deciding an Annual Points Champion. We race homemade 1-Wheel-Drive
racing karts that can race on professional karting tracks and backyard
speedways alike. We have karts rebuilt from used racing chassis, used
yard karts and some built from scratch. We have ONE class to ensure
a true overall track champion, and not have several smaller classes
of divisional champions with no clear winner. We race used 5hp Briggs
Flathead motors fueled by pump gas, sped-up by hand-shaved heads,
and regulated by stock
Fun
Power-type carburetors instead of expensive prefabricated 2-WD chassis
powered by high-priced methanol-fueled motors. On our own backyard
oval speedway, we turn clockwise with our top speeds approximately
45-50MPH. Although we all run in the same division, in addition to
a minimum weight requirement, we have something unique to our inclusive
class -- a weight-to-power-allowance scale to allow heavier drivers
more horsepower via stronger racing cams and more powerful gear ratios,
a system proven to be successful as we have the tightest competition
and most varied winner's circle locally over the last few years.
This is our rules page:
MOTOR
BLOCK:
Borrowing
a Kart from Team Galletta's for a race: 
Most
basic racing etiquette and rules are followed here as every track that
we know of. Most racing rules and flag signals are the same on this
track as every other and should be evident to most people who have spent
any time watching racing on television or in person (But if a driver
does not understand them, they MUST ask track officials or other drivers
and cannot complain against a rule just because they didn't know what
it meant). However, first off, we are a nonprofit, recreational track
only. It is simply for friends and family for FUN, and everyone who
races on our track understands this and has signed the following waiver,
witnessed by at least one of the owner/operators, and often times by
several drivers and track officials. The waiver is reprinted here for
anybody to view, and it is the very same waiver that every single driver
here in Galletta's Racing Points History has read and signed:
may
occur while using go-karts on our residence. You will obey all laws,
rules, and regulations instituted by the track officials, and drive
as carefully as you can in order to not cause (or get into) accidents
that could be otherwise avoided. The first and most important rule on
this racetrack is to never intentionally hit another driver and do your
very best to avoid contact that may cause an accident that may cause
an injury or damage machinery. If a driver is vulnerable to be struck
and injured by you and/or your vehicle, your #1 goal is to avoid hurting
that person, even if it means driving off of the track or coming to
a complete stop (you will not be penalized track position if this occurs
unless you collide with a kart or other obstacle). If the track officials
believe that you intentionally caused a wreck, the track officials reserve
the right to disqualify you for that race, 
and
possibly remove you from the racetrack and ban you from the property
temporarily, indefinitely and/or permanently if you continue to rebel
against the rules or break any laws. You agree that you cannot ever
attempt to bring a lawsuit against the property owners or fellow racers
no matter what kind of injury you may obtain on our property. We cannot
and will not pay any hospital or doctor bills that you might obtain
if you were to become injured. No one that you know can sue us in place
of you because you agree that you are racing at your own risk, at no
profit, and for recreational purposes only. All drivers should be over
18, and if you are not, this signature also affirms that a parent or
legal guardian has granted you permission to race on this track and
that said person also understands the ride-at-your-own-risk policy at
this racetrack. If you wish for insurance, you must use your own, as
the landowner has no gate or entry fees to provide it for you. We race
karts under a friends/family basis only. This contract (that may exceed
this page) also affirms that you will obey and respect all rules, regulations,
and instructions set forth by the property owners/track officials (Matthew
Joseph Stevens, Christopher John Stevens, Wesley James Stevens, Mary
Ann Stevens, Rungnapha "Aou" Phengpataew Stevens, and
Melissa Gabel Stevens). [Contract then says: Please legibly sign and
print your name below, and the contract has been read, agreed to, and
signed by every driver who has ever raced at our racetrack, as witnessed
by all people there.] 2009 UPDATE: Above is our older waiver. We
now have an updated waiver purchased from a law firm dealing with kart
tracks, but our track operates under the same non-profit 
Even
if a wreck involving you is not necessarily your fault,
if
you are involved via contact of any kind that causes an accident, you
must go to the rear. EXCEPTIONS: If you come to a complete stop
and hit nothing to avoid a wreck, or drive off of the track and hit
nothing to avoid a wreck, you will not be penalized and regain
your position on the last completed lap. With open-wheel racing, even
light wheel-to-wheel contact can cause an accident, and any accident
can potentially damage the karts, the racing surface, and most importantly,
injure you or other drivers. Hence, any risky activity is forbidden,
and you must obey if found guilty of wrecking (tape will be reviewed
if official is contested). 
You
must give other drivers room, and you should only attempt a pass where
you know you have enough room to make the pass without a collision,
and where the driver you are passing SEES YOU AND KNOWS THAT YOU
ARE THERE (usually when you show that driver a tire or a scream
or you know he knows that you're there). In most cases, unless the driver
ahead is not holding a line and respecting a competing driver, an accident's
cause usually is the fault of the driver behind running into or spinning
the driver in front or beside them, unless it is a spin or wreck that
collects a driver behind because they had nowhere to go. Therefore,
you must HOLD YOUR LINE. 
PENALTY
FOR WRECKING OTHERS: If you are found guilty of pushing, spinning,
and/or wrecking another driver (whether it be a purposeful or negligent
action), then you must go to the rear of the field (of the lap that
you are on). If you do not, then you can be penalized -5 to -10 points
(for each offense depending on severity), or disqualified to last place
(on the lap you are on) if found to be intentional. If found to be intentional
and/or malicious, you may be banned from competition.
If the track officials miss what appears to be an intentional wreck
or spin that causes a caution or damage to the karts and it goes unnoticed
at the time but is caught on tape, you may be penalized points post-race
when points are being tallied, but allowed to keep your final position. Light, straight bumper-to-bumper contact
is allowed, ONLY if it does not cause a wreck. Light contact that does
not force another kart off the track and that does no damage will not
be penalized. However, if that contact causes a spin or wreck, both
drivers must go to the back, with the kart that caused the wreck in
back of the other. If it continues, you disqualify yourself from the
race and especially if you are unrepentant for your actions, you must
leave the racing surface indefinitely.
3.
Excessive wrecking/spinout/caution rule: If you spinout or wreck
more than two times per race, you may be penalized and/or banned/disqualified
from the race or indefinitely. If you cause at least two cautions via
wreck or spin, run at least 10 racing laps, and/or break any part on
a go-kart, you will not be granted a refund, so do not ask. The fees
cover gas, track, and kart maintenance, and most importantly, kart parts
(if you own your own kart, then you know how expensive this can be).
Allowed exception; A stalling kart that (1) simply does not run, (2)
has absolutely no broken parts and (3) does not run for even the experienced
owners, does not count under this rule. Under this exception, if (1)
your kart does not run, (2) you complete less than 10 laps (this is
counting completed green laps and ALSO cautions that YOU caused), and
(3) there is absolutely no damage to the karts, then you may be partially
refunded a fair amount after the race with a meeting with track officials
and owners.
3b.
Specialized Rookie & Novice wreck/spinout/caution rule: Due
to continuous problems with rookie/novice drivers spinning out and wrecking
at a ratio around 10-to-1 more than veterans, rookie drivers (most notably,
those with under 10 races of experience) will be held to a strict law
as follows:
3b2.
Reckless rookies wanting their money back rule: If you wreck your
kart, or cause other people to wreck and lose your ride due to broken
parts or being a hazard in general (spinning out multiple times, negligence,
not braking properly, ect.), and whether you leave on your own accord
or lose your ride due to hazardous driving, you cannot request your
money back just because you didn't fully complete the race. These karts
cost a lot of money to maintain, and we rent them out
